Week 4 – part 2: 29 January – 1 February 2025
On 28 January, we woke at the break of dawn for our day of adventures. After a long bus drive, we found ourselves stuck at the gate to the necropolis of Meir. Fortunately, after a few beeps and signalling from our driver, the site guards came to open the doors that led us to the site. Samantha gave a wonderful site presentation which blew us away (just like the wind that day) and introduced us to “William” the hippo.
Next, we climbed up to the tombs, where Samantha showed us the reliefs in the tomb Senbi I with their little quirks like the hunting scene. After exploring the remaining tombs of the Old and Middle Kingdom, some of us raced down the sand dunes towards the bus, while others leisured the desert breeze while sliding slowly through the warm sand.
Next, we climbed up to the tombs, where Samantha showed us the reliefs in the tomb Senbi I with their little quirks like the hunting scene. After exploring the remaining tombs of the Old and Middle Kingdom, some of us raced down the sand dunes towards the bus, while others leisured the desert breeze while sliding slowly through the warm sand.
We had the chance to also see (the replica of) one of the only funerary gardens known to exist and talk to a part of the team that is currently working at the site. One of them was Francisco Bosch-Puche who showed us some of the animal mummies that were found inside the tomb of Hery picking our interest in animal cult offerings and their wrappings.
We then visited the tomb of Djehuty. Despite the damage, it provided us with a glimpse of how Djehuty, a revered scribe, wanted to be portrayed in his tomb. Unfortunately, his name has been erased along with his father’s except in his burial chamber, which was protected from robbers due to its collapse. We left the excavations with a feeling of wanderlust and eager to go back.
Afterwards, we headed over to Deir el-Bahari, where Marleen and Andrés gave us an overview of the site as well as some specificities about the surrounding rock-cut tombs. We then headed up the temple of Hathsepsut and marvelled over the painted reliefs like the voyage to Punt and the divine birth of Hathsepsut. We also used this moment to practice our hieroglyph deciphering skills with the inscriptions on the walls relying on each other to correct or add to our translations – it was a great teamwork exercise. The day wasn’t over yet. We visited Carter’s excavation house and gained insight into what it was like to be an Egyptologist during the early 20th century, also exploring the replica tomb of Tutankhamun. Exhausted but unmistakably happy, we returned to the hotel where some of us enjoyed the pool while others rested before heading out to town for a delicious dinner, ending the day full and content.
On 31 January we reached our free day. The group woke up early and although we split up, we all ended up finding each other at the beautiful Valley of the Kings under the sight of Meretseger who oversaw us whilst we entered the breathtaking tombs. Afterwards, some of us decided to visit the Karnak temple. This was an amazing experience, one of true awe, and some of us even got emotional. The rest of the group decided to enjoy the pool and the city at night before resting for the day ahead.
On 1 February we began the new month with an early visit to Deir el-Ballas, where we met Nick Brown and the team working there. This site gave us a perfect example of what archaeology looks like in real life and what modern archaeology can do to salvage ancient structures from disappearing completely. It was incredible to see how much care is being taken to protect the site not only for future research but also for future public access. We also paid a visit to the potters of the modern village of Deir el-Ballas, who make marl clay pots typical for that area.
We then bid our goodbyes to Deir el-Ballas and headed to the temple of Dendera where we had lunch under the shade of a wooden pavilion adorned with plants that offered us relief from the scorching sun. Afterwards Machteld gave us an insightful presentation about the site, the various missions that work(ed) there, the architecture, the Hathor temple and its related cult in this area and also some particular elements within the temple like the zodiac. Once free to explore, the group split up into smaller units to investigate various curiosities around the site. Samantha went looking for the Coptic church with reused blocks from pharaonic structures while Kaitlyn and Machteld went looking for Cleopatra VII’s face. Yasi wandered off to capture breathtaking photos, meeting up with us later. Agnieszka, Lisa and me (Margarida) found ourselves at the mammisi or birthing house, discussing the reliefs on the walls. Mayke visited the beautiful chapels on the temple’s roof, and Ricardo ventured to the highest part of the temple for an incredible view of the entire site, including the still-standing mudbrick wall that surrounds it.
Overall, this was an unforgettable week, especially regarding the site presentations from our dear classmates as they did an excellent job. While it was a tiring week, we always found time to enjoy the pool whenever we could. Looking ahead, we are excited for what next week holds as it promises to be just as (if not more) incredible.
Margarida Pinto Sobral